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Building a Fresh New Win95 Machine
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Build the Machine

Copyright (C) 1996 By Steve Litt: Steve Litt's email address 
LEGAL NOTE: I have done my best to make this document complete and accurate. However, any hardware or software installation carries the possibility of problems, including possible data loss and possible irreparable hardware damage. I take no responsibility for any problems you might encounter as a result of your use of this document, including errors and omissions in this document. If you cannot accept this, do not use this document.
This document is copyrighted, but I hereby give you permission to print a paper copy for yourself, to refer to while your computer is taken apart. Be sure to print the sub pages also.

Build the Machine

Choosing the Motherboard

Always start with a high quality, reliable, *name brand* motherboard. Motherboards have too many variables to take chances. Note that an Intel Chipset doesn't make a board high quality, reliable or name brand. High capacitance board layout or bad soldering can spoil an otherwise great chipset. Make sure the motherboard you choose has a complete and readable manual -- you don't want to be dealing with a "black box". Remember that motherboard defects may not reveal themselves until well past Windows 95 installation, at which time they masquerade as software or configuration problems. This can cost you days. Get a name brand motherboard with a good reputation for quality.

I hate to support a monopoly, but unless you're thoroughly familiar with the non-Intel microprocessors, I'd suggest a genuine Intel Microprocessor. That way, if there's a problem, a CPU incompatibility is already ruled out. Note that modern microprocessors MUST be attached to a fan.

I like to have the store I buy the motherboard at install the chips, including processor, memory and fan, and configure the jumpers. It's their job, they do it every day, and they're good at it. They're less likely to make a mistake than I am.

Make Sure the Machine's Powered Down

Always turn off the computer (with the power switch, not the power cord) before connecting or disconnecting anything, whether inside the computer (such as IDE cables or peripheral boards) or out (such as mice and printer cables). Leave the power cord plugged into a grounding outlet so the computer's case is grounded.

Install the Motherboard

Follow Static Electricity Precautions!(see footnote) Bolt down the Motherboard with the mounting hardware that came with the computer's case (or the hardware that held down the former motherboard). If there are any problems go to the store and get additional mounting hardware. Connect up the wires for the LED's, switches, internal speaker, etc. Use extreme care when hooking up the Power Supply wires to the motherboard. This, more than any other connection, is likely to cause permanent damage if done wrong. Consult the motherboard documentation. Usually, but not always, the black wires from each power supply connector are next to each other. If there are any questions, consult the manual or call the store where you bought the motherboard.

Install and bolt down the video card (do not install the video card's software at this time). Plug a monitor into the video card and a keyboard into the motherboard's keyboard slot, and power it up. You should see the computer count up the proper amount of memory on the monitor during self test. If this doesn't happen, check all your connections. If you're reasonably certain they're correct, call the store where you bought the motherboard. When you can get the self-test to count memory, go on to the next step.
 
 

[ If All Else Fails ]

Install all Drives

Before mounting drives, write down their serial numbers. Write down the drive parameters written on the drives. Draw a picture of their connections so you'll know where each pin 1 is. For hard drives, make sure their master/slave jumpers are properly configured for the number and order of drives. Consult your documentation. Lost drive jumpers are available cheap at your local computer store.

Install any 3.5 to 5.25 mounting conversion kits. Slide the drives into the case, and connect all IDE and Floppy cables. If your case is a full tower, you may need 24 inch IDE cables instead of the standard 18 inch. The 24 inch are hard to find, so call before you drive. Make sure to match pin 1 on the drive to the red stripe on the ribbon cable. One easy mistake to make is to connect an IDE cable "off center" such that two pins on one side remain unconnected. Good lighting, any necessary eyeglasses, and double-checking are your best defenses against this. This type of error usually produces "won't boot" or "drive not recognized" type errors, but could theoretically cause permanent damage. Make sure all cables are fully inserted on their connectors. When everything is connected properly, screw the drives into the case.

Double and triple check all your connections. When you're confident you've done it right, insert the special "System Builder" diskette you made earlier in this document and power the machine on. When the Power-up sequence tells you to hit a key combination for setup, hit that key combination. If you have IDE drives, use the "auto configure drives" option of the setup program. (may be called something else in your BIOS). For name brand, modern IDE drives, this almost always gives the correct configuration, and you should think twice before changing it.

When you've configured the drives, save the configuration and continue the boot. When the boot is finished you should be at an A:\DOS prompt. Power the machine down and up again just to be on the safe side. If there's any data on any of your hard drives you should be able to see it at this point. However, you won't see your CD-ROM drive because you haven't installed the drivers. If your machine boots to an A:\DOS prompt with your "System Builder" diskette continue to the next step. Otherwise seek help from the store selling you the motherboard.
 
 

[ If All Else Fails ]



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Copyright (C)1996 by Steve Litt. -- Legal