If you like this wheelbuilding document, you'll love my books. See the entire list at http://www.troubleshooters.com/bookstore. |
CORRECT | WRONG | WRONG | REALLY WRONG |
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Valve is clear of spokes on either side. | Valve conflicts with spoke on its right. | Valve conflicts with spoke on its left. | Valve conflicts with spokes on both sides. |
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Most
rims stagger the spoke holes to alternate sides of the rim's center
circumference, as shown in the graphic to the left. The valve
hole is not visible in the graphic, but instead is on the bottom side
where it can't be seen.
Notice that every other hole is offset to the left of the center circumference, with alternating holes offset to the right. It's ABSOLUTELY essential that spokes from the left hand hub flange go to left-offset rim holes, and spokes from the right hub flange go to the right-offset rim holes. If you were to do it the other way, spokes would cross the center circumference, with each spoke entering the rim at an unacceptably shallow angle rather than the preferable 90 degrees (perpendicular). The necessity of not crossing the center circumference constrains your wheel building possibilities. |
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Some
hubs have bevelling (I'd call it countersinking, but as you'll see
later the spoke heads do NOT go on the bevelled side) if you look at
any side of any flange on the hub. The diagram at the left is an
example.
Some hubs have holes bevelled on both sides, so that it makes no difference which side you stick the spoke in. But others have holes bevelled on one side only, with bevelling direction alternating on the flange. On the diagram to the left, the holes that don't appear bevelled are bevelled on the other side of the flange. The purpose of the bevel is NOT to house the spoke head. Instead, the purpose is to match the curve of the spoke coming out of its head, so that the spoke is not continuously cut by a sharp right angle. When holes have bevels only one one side, ALWAYS stick spokes into the non-bevelled side. |
Right Way |
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Wrong Way |
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This is the right way. The bevel supports and caresses the curve of the spoke, while the hard edge stops the spoke head from slipping through |
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This is the wrong way. The curve of the spoke is left to bend around the right angle and then be cut by that right angle. |
NOTE
Most modern hubs are either unbevelled or bevelled the same on both sides of each hole. Such symmetrical bevelling or lack of bevelling eliminate situations where you have to choose between a boxed wheel, a symmetric wheel, or a strong and stable wheel. Nevertheless, ALWAYS check the hub to find out about the bevelling. If bevelling is asymmetric and you lace the hub with spoke heads going into the bevel, you're going to be breaking a lot of spokes. |
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Dished Wheel |
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Undished Wheel |
![]() Right hole on top |
![]() Right hole on bottom |
![]() Right bevelled |
![]() Right non-bevelled |
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Compatible with right
hole on top rim. |
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Compatible with right
hole on bottom rim. |
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Hub right bevelled | Hub right non-bevelled |
Rim right hole on top | Compatible. Build a symmetric wheel. | Incompatible. Build an asymmetric wheel. |
Rim right hole on bottom | Incompatible. Build an asymmetric wheel. | Compatible. Build a symmetric wheel. |
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If rim is right hole on top. | If rim is right hole on bottom. |
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If rim is left hole on top. | If rim is left hole on bottom. |
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If rim is right hole on top. | If rim is right hole on bottom. |
Wheel Geometry |
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Rim holes to go counterclockwise |
1 cross |
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2 |
2 cross |
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6 |
3 cross |
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10 |
4 cross | 14 |
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Click here to see the math behind wheel dishing with a complete diagram. |
If you like this wheelbuilding document, you'll love my books. See the entire list at http://www.troubleshooters.com/bookstore. |